I have let my feelings known regarding off season travel (I love it), and nowhere has reinforced my opinion of this more than Mostar, Herzegovina. Walking through Mostar’s Stari Grad, it’s clear why the place is known to become such a hot tourist mess in the Summer. The combination of the medieval atmosphere with cheap prices and great food has doomed many places once off the beaten path (looking at you, all of Croatia), and Herzegovina’s largest city is no different. Day tour buses come in droves from Dubrovnik or Split from Spring to Fall – allowing tourists to spend a couple of hours in Mostar before returning to greater relative comfort and development on the Adriatic. Continue reading Anatomy of a Perfect Travel Day: New Years in Mostar, Herzegovina
It’s finally time for David and I to head out on another trip! For this trip, we are taking more of a well trodden tourist path through the Southeast Asian nations of Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. All in twelve days, because that’s how I party.
Continue reading Basic Beaches: Southeast Asia 2016
David and I are avid runners. Not at the moment, but I’ll get to that soon enough. Before our trip to Serbia and Bosnia over New Years, we were running around 40 miles a week in preparation for a 50k in one of Washington State’s most beautiful parks. After successfully completing the race (despite high wind advisories), it was a very quick two weeks recovery before we were on our way back to the Balkans – this time spending most of our time in Belgrade, Serbia and Sarajevo, Bosnia.
I’ll be honest, we ended up in Kosovo on a technicality. When I spontaneously switched jobs last fall and decided to take an impromptu trip through the south Balkans, we were thinking primarily of Buzludzha. We tacked on Macedonia to Bulgaria for Skopje’s space age Brutalist masterpieces and the relatively undiscovered Lake Ohrid. We only ended up in Kosovo because it was cheaper to fly into Pristina than it was to fly into Skopje.
But boy were we glad we did. We spent three days there, between Pristina, Pec, and Prizren, and while we loved the latter two towns, Pristina (bad weather and all) was the Kosovar city to really win us over. Continue reading My Favorite Ugly Building: The National Library of Kosovo
I’ve put off writing this piece for quite a while now. It’s been over a year (15 months, in fact) since we were in Yerevan, and part of me hoped the distance from the place would make my heart grow fonder of it. Unfortunately, that hasn’t been quite the case. And while I don’t actively dislike Yerevan – we actually had quite a good time there, all things considered – I have become sort of ambivalent about visiting again. Continue reading We Need to Talk about Yerevan, Armenia